2 August 2004 - We left Ifrane in the morning after one last mint-tea ceremony with our nice neighbours, towards Er-Rachidia, where we'd meant to stay for our next night. That day was a long drive, 367 km to reach our destination. We only stopped to take pictures, but it did take us a day to drive the distance, when you travel through Morocco, you think in terms of distance - because it can mean anything - you think in terms of trip duration.

part 2: ER-RACHIDIA & ERFOUD

This part of the trip is best told through pictures, so a link at the bottom of the page will take you to the album page...

...but before, I'd like to tell you a little anecdote which might turn out useful for future-travellers to Morocco. When we reached Er-Rachidia we didn't like the look of it. Composed of one very long main street, which is also the main road, we couldn't see any reason to stay there, there wasn't much life, and nothing was within proper walking distance from anything else (get the picture?), so we drove further down to stop in Erfoud.

In Erfoud, a quiet place of 7000 inhabitants, close to the Erg Chebbi (Sahara gateway), we selected the budget Hotel Zaouia (90dh including breakfast) listed on the Lonely Planet, with shared hot showers and "clean, bright, and excellent-value rooms above a café".

I had to negotiate as they tried to increase the price, but they finally had to give us the price listed on the LP . We were so relieved when we reached our "bright and clean" room, much bigger and lighter than the ones we'd stayed in so far. It must be said we were feeling pretty rough after the sleepless night at the campsite, and the long drive in the heat, plus we hadn't had a shower in 48h (just couldn't deal with the campsite "shower" facilities...). Here's how rough we looked at 6 pm:

Obviously, our top priority was to jump in the shower, which we did, handy and seemingly clean opposite our room, so we had a good long shower before heading out to have dinner. We dined at the Café du Sud, Paul had a Kalia (local Tajine of minced mutton with tomato and 44 spices), and I don't remember what I had, except that it was nice - as well as cheap.

When we came back, both exhausted - Paul had almost fallen asleep over his tajine (and when Paul loses interest in food, you start worrying!) - I just wanted a quick wee before crashing into bed... So I went to the bathroom... only to scream and jumb back in fright, here on the squat toilet (sorry for the grimy details), was the most gigantic cockroach I'd ever seen! Actually, the first one I'd ever seen. I couldn't go, I imagined all kinds of weird stuff that could happen, how it could crawl on me while I was there... I ran out to Paul, asked him to help me, but this thing just wouldn't drown, it kept coming back. I had to find another toilet upstairs, except there was no electricity there and I was in such a state, every time I brushed past a door, pillar, or whatever... I screamed.

Before going to bed we checked under the covers, under the bed, everywhere, scared of what we might find... and in the morning, well, we had to face our fears, we needed a shower before leaving, to brush our teeth, etc., so we both went in there, only to discover that what we'd seen the night before wasn't a cockroach, albeit a cockroach with a whole bunch of relatives, sisters and brothers, uncles & aunts, all with kids,  who lived there, under the sink, on the pipes, in the holes in the wall, in the plughole... We had to watch the enemy in turns, ready to grab our weapons should one of them stir... We came out alive, but only thanks to our quick-thinking and bravery.

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